Friday, June 20, 2008

Eilat and Petra: Muhammad, Beach, and Birthday!

 

The weekend after all of the 60th birthday festivities (May 22-25), my friends Amanda, Jessica, Jordana, and I went to Eilat and Petra.  After class on Thursday, we got a bus from Jerusalem, which was supposed to take 4 hours and 45 min, but ended up taking 4 hours (including 2 stops along the way).  After we got to Eilat, we went to settle into our hostel and get dressed to go to dinner.  After we took a LONG time getting ready and playing around in the room taking pictures, we went outside only to find out that it had started raining!  Not only was this a big disappointment since we couldn't really go out, but it was a big surprise for there to be rain in Israel's southernmost city, which is in the middle of the desert, in mid-May.  We ended up going to a pizza place next door to our hostel and then hanging out for the night.

The next day, while Jordana and Amanda stayed behind to go to the beach, Jessica and I woke up bright and early, and headed for one of the two borders in Eilat, the Jordan-Israel border to cross over into Amman, Jordan.  The border crossing was really interesting: we had to go through a series of steps and buy a visa, then they took everyone's passport and you got it back in a big stack at another window.  It seemed really sketchy, and I felt as though it would have been way too easy to steal someone's passport.  Also at the border we met one of the girls from the apartment next door, who was with a girl I have class with and another girl from Hebrew U.  They were also going to Petra, so we went through the border with them. 

After we got across the border, we found out there weren't any busses on Fridays (which we were planning on taking) because Fridays are the Muslim's holy days, so we took a cab into the city of Amman, and then switched into a new cab to take us all the way to Petra (which was about two hours away).  Our new cab driver was named Muhammad, and he was really nice.  He stopped soon after we got in the car and bought us each a bottle of water and a special orange drink (that was REALLY good - it was like fresh squeezed orange juice in a can), and some nuts to snack on.  He also stopped several times along the road to show us different views and sites.

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At the border crossing!

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Crossing into Jordan

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Me and Jessica at one of the stops our cab driver stopped at to show us the view

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A city near Petra

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A 20 Jordanian Dinar bill - it has the Dome of the Rock on it, since it was in Jordan until 1967

After Muhammad dropped us off and arranged a time to pick us up at, we bought our tickets and made arrangements for a tour guide.  When we met our guide, we found out that we would be sharing our tour with two German men, and our tour guide introduced himself as Muhammad (I guess it really is a very common name!).  He told us that our tour mates had arranged horse rides for the first part of the tour, so we could also ride a horse for free and just pay the tip for the person pulling the horse.  So Jessica and I took a horse through the first part of Petra until we got up to the canal, called the Siq, that served as the main entrance to the city of Petra in ancient times.  The horses stop there (except for a few horse drawn carriages for older and sick people) because the canal is very narrow so it would be difficult for all the people and horses to navigate through if the horses continued on.  Once we got to the Siq, Muhammad explained to us about all the beautiful rock around us.  He told us what minerals were represented by the different colors in the rock, about different rock carvings, about the niches where idols were kept in ancient times, and about the water pipe along the sides of the canal that was used to carry water into the city.  It was really interesting, and the rock was gorgeous, as each turn and shift of the sun brought new natural surprises.

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On the way to the Siq

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Entrance to the Siq

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A niche carved into the wall where idols were put in ancient times

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Inside the Siq

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Ancient water system

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Inside the Siq

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More inside the Siq

At the end of the Siq is the ancient treasury, which was thought to be a treasury with treasure in jars when it was discovered, but this was soon proven to be false.  In reality, the treasury was actually an ancient tomb or temple of some kind.  Regardless, though, the treasury was very impressive and was well worth the walk through the Siq.  At the treasury there was also this cute little Arab coffee shop, and Muhammad stopped with us to get coffee and tea.  I had DELICIOUS Arabic coffee - it was really strong and came in a tiny little espresso cup with a bunch of grinds left at the bottom as Arabic coffee is supposed to be prepared, and it was amazing.

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Me and Jessica in front of the treasury

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Camels hanging out in front of the treasury

After our break at the treasury, we walked along the next part through a path with ruins of many ancient tombs in the cliff.  It was really cool to see all the carvings in the cliffs where the wealthy and important people of the ancient town had been buried.  We also passed an amphitheater and some other ancient ruins.

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Ruins in the cliff

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Amphitheater

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Royal tombs

After we got through the ancient tombs, we were in the ruins from the ancient Greek part of the city of Petra.  It was basically a road with some remains from markets and a temple, and was really interesting, especially after having seen so many Greek ruins in Greece over Spring Break and seeing the similarities in the style of architecture.

 

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Greek ruins

After that, we turned around to head back to meet Muhammad #1 at the main entrance, which would take about 40 minutes - one hour to get back through.  There was a monastery up the hill that we didn't get a chance to see, but we saw the majority of what there was to see.  Since we were in somewhat of a rush and found people who would give it to us for very cheap, we got donkey rides back to the treasury.  It was really cool, particularly because I was able to practice my Arabic with the guy leading the donkey.  It showed me a lot that my views on just taking a semester of Arabic was still going to be important - I was able to ask a very basic question (I asked what the donkey's name was) and as soon as the guy leading the donkey realized I knew a little bit of Arabic (and even after he realized just how little that was) he totally warmed up to me and basically spent the entire ride back talking to me in a mix of English and Arabic and ignored Jessica completely.  It helped to gratify my Arabic studies a lot, because it reinforced the idea that even just knowing enough to be courteous goes a long way.  Once we got back to the treasury, we walked back through the Siq and the road up to it.  For some reason, even though it was already after 3pm, it seemed to be much hotter out than the rest of the day had been, so we had some difficulty on the walk back.  Once we met up with Muhammad, though, we had a nice ride back to the border and were able to cross just in time to get back to Israel and the hostel for shabbos.

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Donkey ride!

That night in Eilat was a lot of fun.  We joined back together with Amanda and Jordana, and went to walk along the boardwalk/promenade.  We found this really delicious restaurant near the beach, where we ended up eating dinner the next night too.  After that, we stopped in a bunch of shops and tried on crazy hats and jewelry, and just had some general fun.  In the distance, we saw this neon-lit ball bouncing around in the sky, and found out that it was a ride called the slingshot.  Basically, you get into this ball made out of pipe-like neon-lit things, and it uses a bunjey type set up to shoot you into the air.  Well, Jessica and I decided we obviously had to go on it, while Amanda and Jordana were scared for us.  It was really scary, but a LOT of fun.  We went up really high over the entire city, and got to see all of Eilat lit up at night.  After that, we went to a British style pub near our hostel called the Underground, and hung out for a drink before bed.  Unfortunately, our relaxing drink was interrupted by a loud birthright group at the bar next door, but that gave us a chance to observe their very typical birthright behavior from the view of people who had been here for a few months.

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Jessica and I on the Slingshot

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Me and Jessica at the Underground

The next day we got up early and headed for the beaches.  Even though the weather was gorgeous (even a bit too hot), the beaches weren't exactly what I was expecting.  The part of the beach where you get into the water, and even the very beginning of the water, was very rocky, so it made getting in and out of the water (a necessity to keep cool in the heat) very difficult.  It was still a nice relaxing day, and at least now I can say I've actually been to Eilat (though I don't see why Israelis vacation there more than other beachy cities like Tel Aviv or Haifa).  After a light lunch and frozen drink by the beach, Amanda and I went back to shower and then went to do some shopping while Jordana and Jessica scuba dived with dolphins.  Amanda and I went to a mall near the beach, and I bought a really cute skirt and a couple CDs (including a CD of a very popular Israeli artist whose song "Rikud Romanti" (Romantic Dance) I've been hearing EVERYWHERE.  After we all got back and rested for a while, we went and walked around for a bit and then went out for Jessica's birthday dinner, since her 21st birthday was the next day (but we would be back in class in Jerusalem for dinner that night), and we let her pick the restaurant so she picked where we went the night before because of their massive and delicious salads.  After dinner, we had the waitress bring her a birthday dessert, which she was completely oblivious to.  Then we went out for the traditional 21st birthday drink (back at the Underground), and then went to a club next door for a little while.  The annoying birthright kids were still there, but they had to go back to their hostel around 12, so we were able to enjoy it without them after that.

After a very fun night, we went back to the hostel and got up early to catch the bus back to Jerusalem so we could get back in time for class.  The next week was a combination of sad and intense - Jessica left on Thursday (that's the sad part) because she had to go back home for her summer internship at UBS on Wall Street, and we were all getting ready for finals and stressing.  I had two final tests (one in Hebrew that Friday and one in Middle East: Coexistence and Rapprochement - aka Arab-Israeli Conflict - the next Sunday).  In addition to that and a full week of classes, I had 3 papers due - a 15 page paper in my Iran class (mine ended up being 17 and I finished it a while before), a 20 page paper in my Israeli Legal System Class (ended up being 22), and a 30 page paper for my Arab Israeli Conflict class (which ended up being 42 pages...longest I've ever written!).  And I thought study abroad was supposed to be easy!  Anyway, I was actually particularly proud of my Arab-Israeli Conflict paper.  I wrote about the effects on Israeli foreign policy and domestic attitude from Rabin's assassination, which turned out to be really interesting and eye opening.  Since this blog update is very out-dated, I have since gotten my grade back on the class and did really well in it, so I'm excited, and thinking about asking the professor for a Law School Recommendation letter!

Anyway, on Sunday night at about 2am, I finished the last of my final papers, leaving me a good 2 weeks left in Jerusalem before leaving for Megiddo to just relax, enjoy, and do some day trips while saying my goodbyes to way too many people (which was very sad).

 

Well, seeing as I started this week very behind on this blog, I'm very impressed with myself that I've managed to catch up this much.  Hopefully I'll keep it coming and maybe get to Megiddo (where I am now) before I actually leave (haha!).

Lehitraot for now...coming home two weeks from today! yikes!

<3 Leah

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Israel at 60: Remembering, Celebrating, and Learning

Hey all...so I know it's been a while since I updated, but I'm going to try to catch up in pieces.

 

We last left off at the week of Israel's Memorial Day and Independence Day.

Well, I have to say that week was probably one of the best weeks, if not the best week, since I've been in Israel, for many reasons.  This year, Israel celebrated its 60th birthday, and I got to be here to experience it: Yom HaZikaron (Israel Memorial Day) on Tuesday night-Wednesday day, followed by Yom HaAtzmaut (Israel Independence Day) on Wednesday night-Thursday day. 

Yom HaZikaron started Tuesday night, so we classes ended early on Tuesday in preparation for the holiday.  We could already sense the upcoming holiday, with Israeli flag banners being hung from the dorm buildings and all around Israel.

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The back entrance of the Student Village with the Israeli flags in honor Yom HaZikaron/Yom HaAtzmaut

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The front entrance to the Student Village

Tuesday evening we headed over to the Kotel (Western Wall) for the official state opening ceremony of Yom HaZikaron.  During the holiday, 2 sirens are sounded: once at 8 at night to start the day, and once at 11am for daytime ceremonies.  The ceremony that night at the kotel would be during the evening siren.  We got a spot for the group of us that were going on the stairs overlooking the ceremony in the complex in front of the Kotel.  After waiting a long time with the area getting continuously more crowded, the siren went off.  It was incredibly moving to be at the Kotel for the siren, with the families of those who had died and surrounded by Israelis, soldiers, and Jews from around the world.  I thought a lot throughout the night and day about how lucky we all were to be able to have this ceremony not only in Israel, but at the Kotel, which wasn't under Israeli control until Jerusalem was united during the Six Day War in 1967.  I also started to realize that if it weren't for all those who have fought for Israel, I would not have been able to have any of the amazing experiences I have had so far this semester, or will have in the future.  The ceremony only added to this reflection, as the prayer in remembrance of those who had died was recited, the flag was lowered, and a remembrance flame was lit.  President and former Prime Minister Shimon Peres spoke, and it was cool to hear his speech, which, what of it I was able to understand, was very moving.  Finally, we sang the HaTikva (Israel's national anthem), with thousands of people united to remember those who had fallen.

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An Israeli soldier standing underneath the Israeli flag outside the Kotel

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The Kotel set up for the ceremony

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A group of soldiers near the Kotel

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Soldiers coming to the ceremony - the different color berets represent different units of the army

 

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The ceremony

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The flag lowered and the lit remembrance flame

Video of the lowering of the flag...click the video to play!

The next day, we got up early and went to the Israeli military cemetery, called Har Herzl, where former Prime Ministers as well as fallen soldiers and terror victims were buried.  They had a ceremony there for the morning siren, which was also very moving because we were standing amongst the graves of those who died for Israel while we remembered them.  On our way into the cemetery, volunteers were handing out flowers to the people coming into the cemetery to lay on the different graves.  I thought this was really nice, so that all the different graves had flowers on them, even if the people who placed the flowers didn't know the person.  We went to the ceremony, and, after running into many people we knew, we walked around the cemetery for a little bit to see parts of it, including the section for the recent Second Lebanese War.

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Flowers being handed out outside Har Herzl

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The ceremony at Har Herzl

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Soldiers praying at one of the graves

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Some of the graves

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One of the memorials and groups of graves

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Part of the section of the cemetery for the Second War in Lebanon

That night started Yom HaAtzmaut (Independence Day), and it was absolute blast!  I've been in Israel for Yom HaAtzmaut before, but not in Jerusalem, and there really is nothing that compares to being in Jerusalem for it.  This was especially the case because it was a big anniversary year - 60 years of Israel, as well as 40 years of a united Jerusalem.  I also had thought that Purim was a crazy, fun, and exciting holiday in Jerusalem, but nothing can compare to the energy, excitement, and massive amount of people who were downtown and celebrating Israel's continued existence.

We started out by going downtown for dinner at Burgers Bar, which is a very delicious and WAY better (and kosher) version of Burger King.  After that, we went down to Zion Square, the main square downtown, where the roads had been closed off to cars so that a stage could be set up for a concert, followed by a laser light show and fireworks.  We hung out at the concert for a while, and then went to my roommate Courtney's friend's apartment, which is right off of Ben Yehuda street.  We watched the light show and fireworks from there, and also met some of Courtney's friend's friends.  After that, we started heading over to a bar to meet up with my roommate Jessica's boyfriend, Yitz, and his friends.  On the way there, we ran into some of our friends in the middle of Yaffo street, which I thought was really cool that we were able to just hang out in the middle of a usually very busy street, but since it was closed off there was no problem.  We picked up a few new people and then headed over to the bar.  After hanging out there for a little while, we went down the street to a square where they were having Israeli folk dancing.  We danced for at least an hour, having fun and making fools of ourselves, but it really made it feel like this holiday was something special and uniquely Israeli.  We ended up staying out until around 2:30am, but it was an amazing night.

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Concert in Zion Square

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Ben Yehuda St. filled with people!

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Roommates!  Courtney, Me, and Jessica downtown

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Fireworks and Israeli flag

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Israeli dancing area

The next day, I started out with my roommate Courtney at the Israel Museum.  As a special for Independence Day, some of the Museums were open for free, and since I had never been to the Israel Museum (I tried to go with my dad but it was closed the day we went), I thought it would be a good day to go.  Well, most of the museum was closed off because it was being renovated, but we were able to walk around the sculpture garden, see the Shrine of the Book (where the Dead Sea Scrolls are kept), and see the model of Jerusalem during the Second Temple Period (which used to be at the Holy Land hotel but has since been moved to this much more convenient location).  While we were visiting the model of the second temple period Jerusalem, we realized that it was overlooking a stadium where a big Yom HaAtzmaut invite-only ceremony was taking place, which was to include a fly over by the Israel Air Force, and paratrooping by the Tzanchanim, the paratrooper brigade in the Israeli Defense Forces.  Well, from the platform with the model, we had a perfect view of the ceremony, so we waited there until the ceremony begin.  We got to see the planes do all kinds of tricks, and write 60 in the sky with the plane smoke.  Then we saw the paratroopers land in the stadium.  They landed almost perfectly on target, which was lucky since apparently a similar ceremony in Tel Aviv had some mishaps, and a paratrooper landed on the beach on some people and there were some people injured.  Anyway, it was really cool to watch with all the Israelis and see their pride in the Israeli Defense Forces.

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The Shrine of the Book - the white part is supposed to be shaped like the tops of the jars the scrolls were found in, and the white and black is meant to represent contrast between light and darkness

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The scroll of Isaiah (and the security guard who yelled at me for taking a picture)

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Second Temple Period model

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Me and Courtney in the Ahavah statue - Hebrew version of the Philly Love statue

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Air Show

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Paratrooper landing in the stadium

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Me and Courtney in the sculpture garden

After the air show was over, Courtney and I went to meet up with a bunch of our friends at Gan Saker, or Saker Park, a huge part in Jerusalem.  On Yom HaAtzamuat, everyone goes there for Independence Day BBQs (a la every American holiday).  It was so cool to see all the people there, but the BBQ we went to had its own little area out of the park that we had our BBQ in, so it was nice to have a bit of privacy too.  The people who were having the BBQ were a bunch of Jessica's boyfriend's friends, and they had decided to BBQ an entire lamb, which they had picked out and had slaughtered by a kosher butcher the day before.  The thought of it was kind of gross, but also very Israeli, so it was kind of cool, and the meat and all the other food was pretty good.  We had a great time just relaxing in the sun and hanging out until it came close to sunset and it got a little chilly, so we headed home.  Later that night, Jessica and I went over to her boyfriends' apartment, where we saw a great view of Jerusalem at night from his roof, and then watched a movie.  Overall, it was another really fun day.

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Gan Saker filled with people

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Hanging out at the BBQ - Me, Arielle, Amanda, Jessica, Yitz, Courtney, and Avi

I spent Shabbat with Jessica and some friends in Talpiot, a neighborhood of Jerusalem.  We had meals together and it was a really nice relaxing weekend.  Friday night and Saturday we went to a synagogue that I recognized immediately from when I went there during my senior class trip.  I thought it was really funny that, of all the synagogues in Jerusalem, not only did we end up at the same one, but I was able to recognize it so easily.  It was a really cool experience, especially since it was the synagogue's 20 year anniversary, so there was a special kiddush (snacks and drinks and different platters) in honor of the anniversary.  There was also a baby naming during the service for a newborn baby girl, and I ended up sitting next to the baby's mother, so all through services I was sitting there while people were coming up to congratulate her.

As fun as the long weekend was, it ended bright and early the next morning with a 6am field trip.  My Arab-Israeli conflict class took a full day field trip to the Golan Heights.  We started off by driving along the border of Israel and Jordan, then went to the Syrian border, and finally overlooked the Lebanon border...so we saw 4 countries in 1 day!  Basically, the goal of the trip was to learn about the strategic importance of the Golan Heights, which became even more interesting recently as peace negotiations with Syria have begun and Israel is apparently considering giving up the Golan Heights.  This not only made me really happy I had been in case I don't have a chance to go if Israel gives it up, but also made me realize how important it is strategically.  There were some parts of the Golan Heights that overlooked the Galilee to the point that, apparently, when Syria had the Golan Heights, they could actually see Israelis in their houses.

Anyway, we saw lots of the different countries and it was absolutely beautiful.  We also stopped at the visitors center, and saw a couple really funny multimedia presentations about the resources of the Golan and its military history.  The only problem was that our bus broke down in the middle of the freeway, as I have come to learn in my times in Israel that all busses are bound to do.  We waited on the side of the road for a little while, and then got a replacement bus.  The one good thing that came out of this was that our new bus driver was a retired army general who had recently finished 30 years of service in the Israeli army and began working in the tourism business.  As it turned out, he had fought at the Valley of the Tears, the location of one of the battles that we stopped at that was marked with a really interesting memorial that listed all of those who died.  He told us about the battle and how his commander, who was listed on the memorial, had died in the battle.

 

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Memorial at an old police station dedicated to non-Israeli fighters who died fighting there in the Independence War

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Israeli-Jordan border

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View of Jordan

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View of Jordan

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Jordan through the security fence

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View of the Sea of Galilee from the Golan Heights

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Old Syrian bunker in the Golan Heights

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Memorial at the bunker

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View of Israel proper from the old Syrian Bunker - from this viewpoint, Syrians could see Israelis in the bathrooms of their homes

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View of Syria - the white buildings are the camps of UN forces

 

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Syria

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Memorial at the Valley of the Tears, the location of a very important and deadly battle during the Yom Kippur War of 1973

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Valley of the Tears

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The northernmost city of Israel and Southern Lebanon

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View of Lebanon